The culinary roots of the Jing'an Temple area are deep and delectable

Editor’s note:

Rome wasn’t built in a day. Neither was Shanghai. Once dubbed "the Paris of the East,” the city has evolved into a fusion of multiculturalism. Along the way, Shanghai has accumulated a repository of stories about the people and events that have shaped its history. Five areas of the city occupy pride of place in that journey: People’s Square, Jing’an Temple, Xujiahui, Lujiazui and Xintiandi. This series, a collaboration with Shanghai Local Chronicles Library, visits them all to follow in the footsteps of time.

The Jing’an Temple area is not only a vibrant crossroad of culture and commerce, it’s also a food lover’s delight where heritage meets innovation at the dinner plate.

Meilongzhen Restaurant, specializing in cuisines from Sichuan Province and the city of Yangzhou in Jiangsu Province, has been a shining example of gastronomy since March 1939.

Initially a modest eatery on Weihai Road, it attracted patrons with its inviting decor and delectable dishes, served with meticulous care by waitresses.

In 1943, owner Wu Mei decided to relocate and expand the restaurant. She was more than just a savvy businesswoman; she was also a celebrated figure in Shanghai’s art scene, known for her roles in the film “Goddess of Freedom” and the stage play “The True Story of Ah Q.” She is also remembered as director of the 1938 play “Apartment for Women.”

Leveraging her extensive network, she rallied support from film, theater and legal notables to raise capital to establish the new Meilongzhen on Nanjing Road W. The interior was redesigned with palatial elegance.

In a bold culinary move, Wu introduced the spicy flavors of Sichuan cooking to the Yangzhou traditional cuisine called huaiyang. She hired renowned Sichuan chef Shen Zifang, who created what came to be called “Shanghai-style Sichuan cuisine.”

Meilongzhen quickly became a magnet for the modern women of Shanghai and a popular haunt for the city’s film and theater celebrities.

Following China’s policies of reform and opening-up to the outside world that began in the late 1970s, Meilongzhen continued to honor its culinary roots while embracing diverse influences. The result was a distinctive cuisine characterized by smooth, fresh and rich flavors.

The menu features more than 200 traditional dishes, including favorites such as double-cooked pork with pancakes, fish meat noodles and dry-braised prawns, and over 30 more innovative dishes, including oyster sauce crispy buns, salt-and-pepper lobster and crab, boiled dried tofu strips and jasmine chicken soup.

The notables passing through its doors included Premier Zhou Enlai, who hosted a banquet in 1958 for professionals and model workers in Shanghai’s metallurgical industry; and French President Jacques Chirac, who proclaimed the 1997 meal he had there the best Chinese food he had ever tasted.

Rivaling Meilongzhen is Luyangcun Restaurant, which also features Yangzhou cuisine. Established in 1936, Luyangcun captivated the palates of Shanghai residents with its exquisite dishes and authentic dim sum.

In the 1940s, Luyangcun employed famous Sichuan cuisine chef Lin Wanyun to enrich its menu. He also infused Yangzhou cuisine with bold Sichuan flavors. Dishes at the restaurant were renowned for meticulous ingredient selection, precise knife skills, balanced seasonings, rich aromas and nutrition.

Main courses aside, there are a trove of delightful desserts and snacks on offer in the Jing’an Temple area. For traditional Chinese treats, Wangjiasha is a popular Shanghai snack eatery brand, while Kaisiling desserts is a favorite venue for Western-style desserts.

Founded in the mid-1940s at the intersection of Nanjing Road W. and Shimen Road, Wangjiasha is renowned for its dim sum and the diversity and subtle flavors of its snacks. Its “four great specialties” are crab meat shengjian (pan-fried buns), shrimp wonton, red-bean pastry and liangmianhuang (crispy pan-fried noodles).

In 2008, Wangjiasha’s dim sum was enrolled as a Shanghai’s cultural heritage.

Founded in 1928 at the corner of Nanjing Road W. and Maoming Road, Kaisiling started as a Western restaurant but soon became famous for its desserts, especially after the Ling Qingxiang family joined its culinary staff.

Ling was a top-tier pastry chef who previously worked at a Western restaurant managed by Germans. His eldest son Ling Heming specialized in intricate cake molds, while the younger son Ling Yiming excelled in cake decoration skills.

With the Lings onboard, Kaisiling cakes became a signature product. The popular saying was: “For cakes, go to Kaisiling.”

Famed author Eileen Chang (1920-1995) loved Kaisiling cakes so much that she often spent hours there with her lifelong friend Fatima Mohideen. In Chang’s novel “Lust, Caution,” protagonist Wang Jiazhi visits a coffee shop modeled after Kaisiling.

Kaisiling’s chestnut cakes have won national awards and Shanghai “quality product” honors.