Where Shanghai's elite once hobnobbed, memories of a glamorous past persist

Editor’s note:

Rome wasn’t built in a day. Neither was Shanghai. Once dubbed "the Paris of the East,” the city has evolved into a fusion of multiculturalism. Along the way, Shanghai has accumulated a repository of stories about the people and events that have shaped its history. Five areas of the city occupy pride of place in that journey: People’s Square, Jing’an Temple, Xujiahui, Lujiazui and Xintiandi. This series, a collaboration with Shanghai Local Chronicles Library, visits them all to follow in the footsteps of time.

Nanchang Road once thrived as an old Shanghai social hotspot, where the elite rubbed shoulders at what was once a German country club, shopped in the Nanchang Building and relaxed in Fuxing Park. These landmarks, rich in European architectural flair, still ooze with the city’s glamorous past.

At 47 Nanchang Road stands the iconic Science Hall, a building rich in history and architectural grandeur. Its long slope, box-shaped French-style verandas, gray stone walls and white arches are immediately eye-catching.

This building, originally constructed in 1903 as a country club for German expatriates in Shanghai, mixed Chinese decor with European-style amenities — German-style villas, a grass-roofed pavilion, bamboo bridges, areas for tennis, baseball and lawn bowls, and even an outdoor skating rink.

Following World War I, the French Concession took over the property, transforming it into Verdun Garden, a centerpiece of French influence in the city. A grand villa in the Renaissance style was built on the premises, the largest of its kind in Shanghai at the time. The villa boasted symmetrical layouts, grand staircases and spacious French gardens that connected directly to Fuxing Park.

While the building’s northern facade, which faces Nanchang Road, is understated and somewhat unassuming, the southern face opens up to a world of French architectural charm.

Arched windows, wide verandas and a sloping roof topped with a clock and French red tiles evoke the opulence of Renaissance France. The building’s distinctive design includes five sloped roofs, with the central one in the mansard style typical of French design.

In 1954, the venue was renovated and repurposed as a gathering place for scientists. In 1958, it was renamed Science Hall, a name it retains today.

Despite the changes, the hall preserved its French esthetics, with wood-paneled hallways, stained glass windows and a ballroom. Though the expansive lawns and tennis courts that once surrounded the Science Hall are long gone, the building’s grandeur remains.

Just down the road, the Nanchang Building, originally known as Astrid Apartments, stands at the northeast corner of Nanchang and Maoming roads. Constructed in 1933, the building’s reinforced concrete structure and wedge-shaped design immediately set it apart from its neighbors. Its narrow, tower-like details and simple facade give it a modern, yet unobtrusive appearance.

The eight-story building, which housed shops on the ground floor and apartments above, was considered innovative for its time. The layout featured a central courtyard, separate staircases for residents and servants, and a hand-operated elevator surrounded by a spiral staircase. This unique elevator, visible from the outside, was operated by an attendant.

The building’s exterior, adorned with alternating yellow and green tiles, has withstood more than 80 years of weathering without deterioration.

The Nanchang Building was home to some of Shanghai’s most prestigious residents. Notable figures in the arts and medical fields, such as Peking Opera artist Chen Dahuo, pianist Ding Xingxian and plastic surgeon Zhang Disheng, resided there.

At the corner of Nanchang and Yandang roads lies Fuxing Park, a rare gem in Shanghai.

Originally the private garden of the Gu family, the area was transformed by French landscape architect Papot in collaboration with Chinese horticulturist Yu Xilin. Completed in 1909, the park’s classic French style resembled the renowned Parc de la Tete d’Or in Lyon, with geometric flower beds, expansive lawns and strolling pathways.

The park’s centerpiece is its grand fountain. The park’s French influence is unmistakable, with flowers, statues and tree-lined avenues meticulously laid out to mirror classic European garden design. The southern lawn covers 8,000 square meters, offering a lush, open space that stands in stark contrast to the urban concrete just beyond the park’s gates.

After World War II, the park was renamed Fuxing, or “rejuvenation,” Park.

Today, much of its original French charm remains intact. The fountain’s water jets still sparkle like pearls, and visitors strolling past the central fountain and flower beds may feel as though they’ve been transported to France.