Sinan Road: a tranquil historical path of people prominent in Shanghai's history

Editor’s note:

Rome wasn’t built in a day. Neither was Shanghai. Once dubbed "the Paris of the East,” the city has evolved into a fusion of multiculturalism. Along the way, Shanghai has accumulated a repository of stories about the people and events that have shaped its history. Five areas of the city occupy pride of place in that journey: People’s Square, Jing’an Temple, Xujiahui, Lujiazui and Xintiandi. This series, a collaboration with Shanghai Local Chronicles Library, visits them all to follow in the footsteps of time.

Sinan Road, lined with elegant garden villas and shaded by towering sycamore trees, is a living narrative of Shanghai’s history and evolution.

The road stretches from Huaihai Road M. to Taikang Road and intersects with the cultural thoroughfare of Nanchang Road. It offers a serene escape from the hubbub of the city.

Sinan Road is one of Shanghai’s 11 historical preservation zones, embodying a unique blend of history, culture and architectural beauty.

Established in 1912, the road was originally named Rue Massenet in honor of the French composer Jules Massenet, who died in Paris that same year. During the Japanese occupation, the street was renamed Lantian Road, before finally adopting its current name in 1945.

The evolution of the road mirrors the turbulent history of Shanghai, infusing it with a sense of the melancholic elegance like Massenet’s compositions, particularly his operas.

Walking along the road, visitors view an array of colorful and uniquely styled garden villas. Although many buildings have retained their historical exteriors, the interiors have undergone various renovations over the decades.

Some of the villas were once home to dignitaries and social elites, including Kuomintang general Yang Sen at No. 36, the former Qixiu Girls’ School at No. 37 and the home of Kuomintang general Lu Han at No. 44.

The road also once housed the French police station, where revolutionary figure Chen Duxiu was detained in 1921 and again in 1922.

The residence of former Premier Zhou Enlai stands out among the many architectural gems along the road. The French-style villa at 73 Sinan Road is surrounded by lush greenery. It was once the site of the Communist Party of China’s Shanghai office.

Designated as a city-level cultural relic in 1959, the residence has since been restored and transformed into a museum. It was listed as a national key cultural heritage site in 2019.

No. 87 on Sinan Road is the former residence of Peking Opera master Mei Lanfang. The simplicity of this European-style villa aligns with Mei’s desire for a tranquil environment during his years of artistic pursuit.

His son Mei Baojiu recalls that many pivotal moments in his father’s life transpired there, including his decision to cultivate a distinctive mustache to protest against the Japanese invasion. The villa has also become a favored location for filmmakers.

Sinan Mansions, established in the 1920s, was originally constructed as a cluster of garden villas and became a gathering place for military leaders, entrepreneurs and artists, making it a social hub for Shanghai elite.

The mansions are the only preserved garden villa complex in the city, encompassing 51 historical buildings that showcase a variety of architectural styles, including stand-alone garden villas, townhouses and modern apartments.

Sinan Mansions is now a vibrant mix of boutique hotels, serviced apartments and commercial space, embodying a harmonious fusion of Eastern and Western architectural influences.

Established in 1953, the Shanghai Research Institute of Culture and History relocated to 41 Sinan Road in December 1980 and continues to operate there today. Over the years, the institute has become a gathering place for distinguished scholars.

The building, constructed in the 1920s, features Islamic architectural elements, including domes, spires, spiral columns, intricately designed stone window grilles and black-and-white striped facades.

The allure of Sinan Road is not merely in its buildings but also in the stories of moments of history, from revolutionary fervor to artistic innovation.

Figures such as Feng Yuxiang, a notable warlord, and celebrated authors and intellectuals once found solace here, weaving their narratives into the fabric of Shanghai’s cultural landscape.